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| Modern Warfare 2 Best class? *Easy 10 pts*? Hi guys, I've been playing MW2 since the release date and I just cannot believe how bad I am doing. I think it is because of my classes. Here are my 5 classes: Primary Weapon: M16A4 Attachment(s): Red Dot Sight Secondary Weapon: M93 Attachment(s): Akimbo Equipment: Throwing Knife Secondary: Stuns x 2 Perk 1: Sleight of Hand PRO Perk 2: Stopping Power PRO Perk 3: Steady Aim PRO TAR-21 Holographic & Heartbeat Sensor (HBS) M1014 Red Dot Sight & Grip Frag/2Stuns Bling PRO Stopping Power PRO Steady Aim PRO MP5K RDS( Red Dot Sight) Magnum Akimbo Semtex/2Stuns Sleight of Hand PRO Stopping Power PRO Steady Aim PRO P90 Silenced AA-12 Grip Tactical Insertion/2Stuns Sleight of Hand PRO Cold-Blooded Steady Aim PRO Barrett 50Cal Thermal & HBS M1014 Grip & RDS Claymore/Smoke Bling PRO Stopping Power PRO Steady Aim PRO It depends on the days...Sometimes, I rape with M16 but other times I suck ***...I am always good with P90 and Barrett. I WANT to change the TAR-21 but I don't know for what...soo please help! |
| in my opinion, i wouldn't use the m16, p90 or tar, personal preference, if you have them, my best/favorite guns are the ACR and SCAR-H here are those classes ACR Holographic M1014 grip stun grenade Sleight of Hand Pro Stopping power pro commando pro The acr is what i use usually, i always go way positive and i do really well, b4 i got the ACR though i used, and still do sometimes, the SCAR-H, here is that class Scar-h M93 Raffica(silencer or red dot, your preferance) Semtex/stun (for perk one i usually have either sleight of hand pro or Bling <red dot-silencer>, but usually the bling) Stopping power or hardline, usually hardline commando pro |
| What to do next with my, what seems, defective PS3? Before I get to my problem, unfortunately, I have to adress this problem. Since my question is involving a system involved in the "War" I prefer to not have any comments about how I "should of picked the XBox rofl!" and "XBox kicks ***!!!11!!!!" This question is for the mature minded, who can handle helping with my technical issues. Now with that out of the way, my problem: My PS3 Blu-ray drive first ate a DVD(Unfortunately my landlord’s, Yikes) It finally came out after a day. When it first happened, it made a noise like the disc cracked inside. It was an Alfred Hitchcock DVD(Rear Window), so I thought to myself, it must have had a crack in the center ring. Well I left it alone to prepare my apology speech to my landlord. The next day I tried the old, hold the eject button down, again and it came out... and intact. Now I feel like everything is A-OK... wrong. I leave it alone for about 15 minutes and I return to the PS3 to place a CD inside. It's blocked by some middle cylinder. I press the eject button and the cylinder retracts, but no mechanisms activate when I go to put the CD in. So now I'm thinking it's still trying to eject, so it will not accept a CD because it believes there is still a disc inside. I quit again for another day preparing my analysis to a Sony rep. I haven't called because each day so far my PS3 has made a step to recovery. The next day, before I decide to call, I try putting in the CD again. The PS3 takes it. Ok I thought let's see if it reads. I go to the XMB, to the music tab(Audio CD) nothing... I look at the PS3 and notice the blue light is not on. This was 2 days ago the only progress the drive has made since is that the insertion doesn't seem to be making a grinding gears noise when I insert the CD. But that is not very helpful because it does not change the fact that the PS3 drive is not reading anything still. That is my problem and I need assistance in what to do next. I've been reading up about the PS3 drive throughout and it doesn't look good. I've only had this thing since December and have not used it since April(visited home left system packaged for I had one at home to use) I'm just looking for some final efforts of help before I go to Sony to most likely replace my Blu Ray drive and possibly the entire PS3, itself. |
| Send it back to Sony... they will replace it for a new one.. |
| $5,100 to Repair 1997 Mustang? Help!! I don't want to lose my Car!? To begin, I own a 1997 Automatic Ford Mustang Convertible (If you need to know anything specific, let me know). I absolutely love my car. Background: About a month and a half ago, my coolant tube broke while I was driving. Had to get it towed to a shop which then replaced the tube and cleaned up my engine a bit. About a week after that, I noticed I was having some heating problems. I then took it in and I was told that the coolant leaked into this area and a certain seal needed to be replaced. Being a cheap part, and a pain in the *** to install it, that cost 800 dollars for mostly labor. Currently I'm having even more issues with this car. First issue: When I drive, I notice that my heating gauge on my dashboard will go up towards the red "danger" bar, then will go back down to the "M" in "Normal." It will repeat this when I am driving, and will go slowly towards that red bar even when idling (very slow, but it does). After running a test, however, I found that when I am going ~80MPH on the highway that it will be on the "N" in "Normal" on the heating gauge - so it stays very cool. But as soon as I'm going ~50MPH on the street, it starts to have the same issue. Second issue: Upon starting up the car these past two weeks after I haven't driven it for a while, it makes a very odd sound. When I'm inside the car, the best way to describe it is that it sounds like a Semi-Truck. You know that very loud noise that Semi-Trucks make when they are parked? It's like that, but mini-version. My car never has made this noise in the past 6 months that I have owned this car, but now it is. Third issue: You should know that I have a very small leak in my oil gasket. I do mean very small. The car places want ~400 Dollars to replace this, but it has been running fine with me just filling up the oil every 3-4 months. I've known about this issue since I bought the car. Once I have the money means to fix it, this is on my to-do list. Fourth (very small) issue: When I open the door, it makes the sounds as if my keys are in the ignition. I believe this is just a small spring inside the key insertion spot that isn't working right or something. Very minor - will have it fixed next time I take it in. Fifth Problem(?): My car gets 13-15MPG. I believe it's a 3.6L Car with a V6. I looked up what my car should get, and it's 18-27. I drive on the highway a lot to get places, so it shouldn't be at the 18 mark. And I don't speed or race excessively either. I sometimes accelerate a little fast, but not a lot. I baby the car. What would cause this issue? Conclusion: After they inspected my car, the car place told me I had/wanted to do: -They think there is a blockage in the Cooling System (They are guessing it’s in the heater core. Want to replace heating core). -Flush radiator. -Head Gasket has a leak. -Something wrong with the lifters. Hitting the pistons when they come up. -They said they want to replace the engine because of the cost of fixing lifters/gasket. The price they want is 5,100 Dollars!! You should know this about me - I am an 18 year old college student with no extra money as all of it goes towards my apartment bill, wireless bill, and my 17 credit hours that I am enrolled in. My parents are probably OK to cover around 2k, but I wish this problem could be resolved for less than that. My parents said that this car is becoming a money dump, and that we cannot pay the 5,100 Dollars. So far, here is what has been paid for it: -Car Itself: 2,900 (Not a bad deal, if you ask me). -New Top: 1,400 (It needed it for sure). -Coolant Tube Replaced: 200. -Seal Replaced: 800. -New Tires + New Bar: 1000. Total Spent so Far: 6,300 As you can see, I'm not happy with spending 5k more. So, my final question, is what is causing the issues I described? Would it really cost that much to fix? Any suggestions will be accepted. Please help me out, as my parents said I will be getting a 1999 Jeep (Mom's Car) or a 2000 Mazda (Dad's Car) if this 5,000 dollar price is correct. Sidenote: I live in an apartment. Fixing these things by myself would be impossible as I have no tools, no garage, etc. |
| Your "mechanic" is ripping you off. Lifters will never hit the pistons, they're physically about 4 inches down and across a 3/4 inch steel wall. Replacing a radiator hose should not cost anywhere NEAR $200, you can do it in your garage with a screwdriver in about 15 minutes for a lower hose, and about 2 minutes for an upper hose. When you overheated your engine, you may have definitely blown a head gasket. There are a few other things that can happen when you overheat your engine, such as warping a cylinder head or warping a cylinder wall, cracking a piston. The second one is unlikely, but the first one can happen. If the cylinder head is warped, the valves that let air in and out of the cylinder may or may not be opening or closing right. If a valve is stuck open, it can hit a piston, causing an awful knocking noise. The other thing that can happen is that if you blew the head gasket and got antifreeze into your oil, you might have done what's called spinning a bearing. If one of your main or rod bearings are spun, your engine is basically toast, and will need at the very least, about $3,000 in labor and parts on the bottom end alone. If this is the case, I'd replace the engine, but I'd find a more reputable shop to do the work, and avoid the place you've been going altogether. Your overheating problem sounds like it may be coming from a plugged radiator - my car had a junk radiator, was doing the exact same thing you're describing, and I replaced it. Since then, the problem has stopped. If the heat works inside your car, and you get hot air out of the vents, it's unlikely that the heater core is shot. The shop might tell you that it is because a heater core is a VERY involved project, about 99 times out of 100 the shop has to pull the entire dashboard apart, a job that pays the mechanics about 20 hours on average. At $100 an hour shop rate, that's $2,000 for just that. Also, a plugged heater core will NEVER make your car overheat. My professional advice to you would be to find a new repair facility, and possibly think about finding a new vehicle. If the engine really is shot in your Mustang, it would probably cost more to repair than the car is valued at Hope I could help, if you have an other questions, feel free to shoot me an email, it's my answers username at yahoo.com |